What happened to Oxford Street?
Recently, the Sydney Morning Herald published the conclusions of a report lamenting the decline of Oxford Street. The report, commissioned by the City of Sydney, found that crime, alcohol-fuelled violence and gay-bashings are discouraging large sections of the public from visiting.
I’m not out late enough to be worried by any of the area’s crime. Sadly, lots of things discourage me from visiting even during the day. Things like:
• Beggars. The same sorry individuals eternally whining for your spare change after they’ve blown their dole money on booze and drugs. ‘Scuuuuuuuuse me……’
• Straight Male Wankers. Groups of open-shirted, gold-chained young men, intent on an evening of clubbing. Frequently pumped up on drugs, they stride down Oxford Street radiating angry, bristly machismo, ready to fistfight anyone who mistakenly assumes they’re gay. By the end of the evening, they’ll be too smashed to score the pussy that they came in search of. They will spend Monday morning at the used car yard where they work bragging about how much they vomited.
• Straight Female Wankers. Chattering nervously and wearing skimpy clothes even if they’re fat, these Paris Hilton wanna-bes can be spotted shrieking into their mobile phones and attempting to text message with their horrid fake fingernails. They will spend Monday tittering with their fellow shop assistants about the Straight Male Wankers who stared at their boobs/grabbed their arse/vomited on their designer handbag.
• Bad takeaway. Clubbers seeking sustenance at 3 a.m. after a boozy night tend not to be terribly choosy. Shrewd owners of fast-food outlets realise this, and start serving inferior-quality food. Anyway, the Straight Wanker crowd doesn’t have sophisticated food preferences even when they’re sober.
The report wistfully concluded that Oxford Street had ‘lost its mojo’. I agree. A more precise diagnosis might be that Oxford Street has become a victim of its own success. Oxford Street became known as a place that was edgy and interesting. Straight Wankers who want to be interesting, and think that being interesting is something that can be bought, began frequenting Oxford Street. Landlords, finding that it is more profitable to rent to high-volume businesses, raise rents. Small, unique businesses like The Pop Shop are forced out. Tawdry clubs flourish.
I still like Oxford Street. There aren’t many other places in Sydney where you can
do your weekly grocery shop at 11:00 pm. But I regret the passing of places like The Albury Hotel, which I first visited on a blistering summer day in 1994. My then-boyfriend, a Manly native who rarely ventured south of the Bridge, took us in for a beer, not realising it was a gay venue. The pretty bartender handed my boyfriend his change, then squeezed his hand and winked suggestively.
My boyfriend and I had a laugh. We realised that were out of place, but knew we were welcome. My boyfriend wasn’t offended by the gay pass. The gay bartender wasn’t annoyed that a straight couple came into a gay business. Could a similar scenario happen now? I don’t think so, and it makes me sad.
Surry Hills, somewhere between Newtown and the Eastern suburbs. Close enough to Oxford St to be full of people of particular persuasion, far enough from the CBD to be without suits and cigarettes.
So the rumour mill was pumping with the exciting speculation that somewhere in Surry Hills, there was a shit little boutique store with $35 dresses. So Miss E and I went to investigate.
After being bolstered by a spot of cafe review research, (soon to appear), we headed down to some shop that will remain nameless (because we don't remember the name). This is partly due to the fact that, in true "we live upstairs" fashion, the owner seemed to be ironing his dresses in the middle of the shop, but, more to the point, was releasing his wares in unmarked paper bags; and partly due to the fact that there is an endemic trend in Surry Hills which the public should be aware of.
My Girl Guides history has taught me to be prepared, so I impart this advice from our recent excursion:
Take your reading glasses.
Cafes, restaurants, pubs, galleries, shops in Surry Hills all have illegibly miniature (often scrawled in some kind of artsy script) names.
Take Cafe Mint for example, which has fading green writing (about 5cm high) on a rough wood panel with not so much as a hanging sign of a sandwich board to announce the presence.
But Surry Hills relies on word of mouth, and the foodie community, to ensure lines out the door: because as we all know, the least known is the most trendy.
Surry Hills is officially too good for advertising, or even publishing any kind of recognisable name that you could use for directions or organising meeting places. If you're not a local, they'd rather you didn't know they were there. And they've managed to seal the place up from access by train, reliable buses, or cars you can park (or ferries or planes).
So what's the moral of the story, kids?
Bring along a local guide who knows the language, has a private driver, will shout you lunch, and knows that the shitty place with plastic chairs and a plastic sign in Chinese is, actually, Billy Kwong's! (Where entry after 6pm means you have to give your mobile phone number to the "bouncer", who may or may not call you, if you are lucky and look trendy enough.)
So wear your belt too high over several layers of retro clothes that would be ugly out of context and take a trip down Crown Street - stay tuned for a look inside one of those unpretentiously pretentious cafes.
Let's have one more whinge before I hit you with another review of a favourite Sydney nook (or cranny). We've all got pet peeves and not all of them are monopolised by Starbucks, so let's compile, compare and contrast, and generally share the spleen around.
AMY'S TOP FIVE
1. Nobody likes cold foam - a product of letting the milk jug sit there until someone wants a coffee - WRONG.
Punishment: lick the crusty burnt milk off the outside of the jug.
2. Tiny weeny coffee cups - unless you're an expresso drinker, for $3 or $3.50 you expect something that will last you more than two sips.
Punishment: Trial by Ikea.
3. Fully refined sugar - it's too strong and it's just too dang white.
Punishment: Buried alive in raw sugar.
4. Too much sediment at the bottom of the cup - clean your coffee machine!!!
Punishment: Eat sand. Mmm crunchy.
5. Burnt, nasty, bitter coffee. There is NEVER any excuse.
Punishment: Banishment to coffee hell - the Land of Decaff, where you still get scalded by overheated milk but never get that buzz you can't learn to live without. Then beheading. By teaspoon.
Please contribute your greatest gripes by commenting below. You do need to be a member, but setup is quick and easy and you needn't start your own blog if you have someone in your life who will listen to this kind of rubbish from you.
Vent that spleen! (I'll clean it up afterwards)